(An A - Z of Popular Cross Stitch Terms)

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A

Acid-free mounting board -- refer to 'mounting board' for an explanation.

Aida -- Aida is possibly the most commonly used fabric in cross stitch. It is an even weave fabric that is available in a number of counts (holes per inch), the most popular of which are 14 and 18.

Aida band -- Aida bands are commonly seen near to the edges of towels, tea towels, bread covers, place mats and napkins and are perfect for cross stitching thematic designs i.e. to fit in with the bathroom or kitchen décor.

Anchor -- this is the name of a major floss (thread) manufacturer.

Assisi -- Assisi work is a type of embroidery in which the main motif is left blank and the background is filled with cross stitch. The technique goes back to the 13^th century. However, today there are a number of more up-to-date forms of the craft.

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B

Backstitch -- backstitch is one of the basic stitches used in all embroidery techniques. It requires the stitcher to produce a continuous line of overlapping stitches, usually as an outline to a design. 

Batting -- refer to 'Wadding' for more details.

Beads -- beads can be used to add texture and sparkle to a block of cross stitches. They are just one of a number of embellishments that are commonly used to add uniqueness to a design.

Binca -- binca is a type of evenweave fabric and is very similar to Aida cloth. It has a very low fabric count (6 to 8 holes per inch typically) and so is perfect for people with impaired eyesight, children and beginners of the craft.

Blackwork -- blackwork is a type of cross stitch in which black thread is stitched onto white or cream fabric, normally linen. Backstitch, cross stitch and running stitch are the three most common types of stitch used for this technique, which incidentally is perfect for geometric designs.

Blending Floss -- occasionally a cross stitch design calls for two different colored flosses to be used in the same stitches i.e. in shaded areas that require more subtle colors. This technique is also known as tweeding.

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C

Chart -- a chart is a grid on which the pattern to be stitched is printed. Each symbol or color on the chart relates to a specific type of floss which is to be used for the corresponding stitches on the fabric. Charts are also known as patterns, graphs and designs.

Color key -- the color key is the list of symbols and associated colors that is found on every cross stitch chart. Most color keys have three bits of information for each color; the symbol used on the chart, the color number (found on the paper tube around the skein of floss) and the name of the actual color. 

Couching -- couching is a technique used in some advanced cross stitch charts. It involves laying a fibre on top of the material you are using and tacking it down with numerous small stitches. The stitching floss can be the same color as the main fibre or a contrasting color depending on the look you want to achieve. This is a great way to create curves and circles in a design.

Count -- the count of a fabric refers to the number of threads or holes in one inch (linear). Aida, a popular fabric for cross stitch is available in a number of counts however 10, 12, 14, 16, and 18 are the most commonly used. Similarly, evenweave is normally bought with 24, 26, 27, 28, 30 or 32 threads or holes in each inch of fabric.  

Counted cross stitch -- counted cross stitch is a specific form of cross stitch in which the fabric is plain and the stitches are placed according to a chart, or graph. The chart is a grid, each square of which represents a square of fabric and a certain colored square on the chart corresponds to a stitch of the same color. The stitcher is required to count stitches in order to recreate the design perfectly.

Cross stitch -- cross stitch is a very popular form of embroidery in which all of the stitches are based on the simple diagonal cross, much like an X. There are a number of variations to the basic stitch that can be used to provide texture and shading to a design.

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D

Daylight bulb -- normal light bulbs are often to dim for the detail of cross stitch and the eyes quickly become tired and strained. A daylight bulb however can help to keep the eyes alert and the design looking clear and they only cost slightly more than a standard bulb.

DMC -- this is the name of possibly the biggest floss manufacturer in the business. They produce hundreds of shades of floss specifically for many of the big pattern designers. Each of their flosses has a unique color-code number so that you can purchase exactly the right shade recommended on a chart.

Double cross stitch -- the double cross stitch has the stitcher making an X to begin and then stitching a + over the top so that the end result is a star motif. These are very pretty stitches, especially when metallic threads are used and stars in the night sky are produced.

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E

Embellished cross stitch -- this type of cross stitch is a kind of 'short-hand' version of normal cross stitch where much of the background is pre-printed meaning that you only have to stitch the main features of the design.

Embellishments -- there are a number of embellishments you can add to a cross stitch pattern in order to add a bit of excitement. Sequins, beads and metallic threads can all help to make a design unique.

Embroidery hoop -- an embroidery hoop is actually composed of two separate hoops, one inside the other. It can be used to hold fabric taut while you are cross stitching by trapping the fabric in between the two hoops and tightening the outer hoop so that it hugs the inner hoop. It is advisable to remove the hoop when not stitching as it can leave a ring-mark on the fabric and stretch it out of shape. 

Evenweave -- evenweave is a smooth fabric with a single thread between each hole. When cross stitching on evenweave it is common to stitch in every other hole however for detailed sections of a design, such as hands and faces, then every hole is used.

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F

Fabric count -- refer to 'Count' for more details.

Flexi-hoop -- a flexi-hoop is very similar to an embroidery hoop, the main difference being that it is plastic and not wooden (as most embroidery hoops are). Flexi-hoops can be round, oval and square, and are suitable for being left around the design as a hanging frame.

Floss -- floss is the common name for a type of cotton thread that comes in skeins of six strands loosely twisted together however often only two or three strands are used at one time. Every individual floss has its own color-code number which is used to identify it on a chart and when purchasing it from a supplier. In addition to cotton floss, you can also buy metallic, nylon, silk and rayon floss.

Fractional stitches -- fractional stitches give a design more natural shapes and contours. Sharp corners produced by full cross stitches often look 'boxy' in a circular or curvy design and so special fractional stitches are incorporated to round off the corners. Refer to 'half stitch' and 'quarter stitch' for an explanation.

French knot -- a French knot is a type of stitch which produces a tiny knot on the upper side of the fabric. They are often used to emphasise the centre of eyes and the middle part of flowers. French knots are a great way to add depth and texture to a piece of work.

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G

Graph paper -- while graph paper is not technically needed to be able to cross stitch it does come in handy should you wish to design your own charts. One square on the graph paper converts to one stitch on the design, thus you just draw whatever you want to cross stitch.

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H

Half cross stitch -- the half cross stitch is exactly what it says it is; half of a cross stitch. A single stitch is sewn, the direction of which should be depicted on the chart.

Holbein stitch -- this stitch is more commonly known as the double running stitch. You simply stitch a row of running stitch in one direction and then come back in the opposite direction filling in the gaps as you go.

Hoop -- refer to 'Embroidery hoop' for an explanation.

HPI -- this is standard abbreviation for Holes Per Inch when referring to fabric counts.

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I

Instructions -- cross stitch kits will always come with instructions explaining how to create the design. Often patterns that are bought separately i.e. not as part of a kit, will not have detailed instructions as it is assumed the stitcher is advanced with regards to the craft.

In-the-hand -- this phrase refers to an alternative method to cross stitch for those of you who don't like to use an embroidery hoop. You literally hold the fabric in your hand, taught between the fingers. One thing to beware of when stitching in the hand is that you maintain a suitable tension; loose stitches look messy while tight stitches can warp the fabric.

Iron on Vilene -- this is a special material used to back finished cross stitch designs. It stops the edges from fraying which makes it much easier to mount and frame them.

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J

Jobelan -- jobelan is an evenweave fabric with regularly spaced, easy to see holes. It is ideal for newbies and children who are attempting their first evenweave project. Jobelan is available from most stockists in a wide range of colors.

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K

Key -- refer to 'Color Key' for an explanation.

Kits -- cross stitch kits contain everything you will need to complete the specified design. For example most kits will contain the fabric, floss, needle, color key and instructions so that you can start stitching straight away. occasionally kits don't include the floss however this will be clearly labelled on the packaging. 

Knots -- knots are a common problem in cross stitch, even for stitchers with years of experience. Knots occur when the threads twist together and so care should be taken to keep the threads from becoming tangled. If you allow your needle to dangle on the end of the thread occasionally the threads will untwist themselves.  If you do find yourself with a knot don't panic. Try to untangle it with your needle but if this fails snip the knot off and sew in the loose ends of the thread.

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L

Linda -- Linda is similar to linen in appearance. Made from a mixture of cotton and synthetic fibres, it is ideal for products that need to be 'easy-care', such as baby clothes and table linens. It is made by Zweigart and is available in six shades, all 100% cotton. Linda has a relatively high fabric count (27 count) and so is not suitable for first-time stitchers, children and people with eyesight difficulties.

Linen -- linen is a type of evenweave fabric with one strand between each hole. It is made from flax and often has a count of 24 to 36 holes per inch.

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M

Madeira Threads -- company was formed some 80 years ago in Freiburg, Germany and are the manufacturers and suppliers of the full range of: Madeira threads, Backing fabrics, Needles, and Digitised Designs.

Masking tape -- the edges of some fabrics can fray over time, especially when the project takes a significant length of time to complete. By covering the edges of the fabric with masking tape they can be stopped from fraying.

Metallic thread -- metallic threads are great for adding a little pizzazz to a design. You can use them on their own for a sparkly effect or they can be combined with normal floss to give a subtle glittery effect. Metallic threads are quite delicate and so short lengths are recommended in order to minimize tangling and knotting.

Mercerized Cotton -- mercerized cotton is specialised cotton that has been treated with sodium hydroxide in order to shrink it and increase its affinity for certain dyes. It often has a better lustre than normal cottons and is also a stronger thread.

Mounting board -- mounting board is a form of stiff cardboard that is used to mount finished cross stitch pieces prior to framing. Acid free mounting board is the most popular type as it prevents discoloration of the fabric that can occur over time.

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N

Needles -- there are a number of needles suitable for cross stitch however the perfect needle should have a blunt tip so that is passes between the threads of the fabric and not through them. You should also find a needle that is comfortable to use and that isn't too big or small for your hand and eyesight.

Needlework Frames -- needlework frames are an alternative to the embroidery hoop and are excellent for larger pieces of work. The rolling dowels at top and bottom allow the work to be scrolled up and down whenever the need arises.

Newbies -- this is the cross stitch name for people who are new to the hobby. It can be taken as a term of endearment!

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O

Organizer -- an organizer is a piece of card or other firm material which has a number of holes punched in it. Each of the holes will have a code or key next to it that will relate to one of the flosses in the kit. These wonderful devices keep your threads tidy and organised, thus they are also known as thread organizers.

OT -- Off Topic simply refers to a topic discussed in the stitcher's forum that isn't about cross-stitch.

Overcast stitching -- overcast stitching is used at the edges of a piece of fabric to stop it from fraying. An alternative method is to use masking tape.

Over-dyed threads -- these specialised threads produce stunning results when used in designs. They begin as a single-color thread however they are then 'over-dyed' with other colors to give them a unique and extraordinary look.

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P

Pattern -- An interchangeable term with Chart. refer to 'Charts' for an explanation.

Perforated paper -- perforated paper is actually thin card which is systematically punched with a grid of holes. It is available in 14-count and can be stitched in the same manner as Aida. One point to note though is that it can tear if force is applied or too many threads are used. Three threads give great coverage but don't overstrain the paper.

Plastic canvas -- plastic canvas is a very versatile form of stitching medium. It is ideal for children as dirty marks simply rub off. Plastic canvas is commonly used to make small items such as tissue boxes, fridge magnets, decorations and even key-rings. It can be cut to shape and it doesn't fray making it one of the easiest 'fabrics' to work with. You can buy plastic canvas in a number of different counts and colors from most good suppliers. 

Ply -- ply is the name given to one of the six individual threads that make up a strand of embroidery floss i.e. six plies make up one strand. Each cross stitch chart should specify the number of plies used for each type of stitch.

Printed cross stitch -- this type of cross stitch has part of the design already printed onto the fabric. Often the printed area does not have to be sewn and is left as it is. 

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Q

Quarter stitch -- a quarter stitch is technically half of a half stitch. It starts in a hole and ends by poking the needle through the fabric halfway to the next hole. Quarter stitches can go in any diagonal direction however the direction required will be shown on the chart.

Questions -- every stitcher comes across something they don't know about at some point and it is nothing to be embarrassed about. The best way to learn is to ask a question when you don't know something so don't be shy -- ask away! You can do this by popping into one of our Stitcher's Forums.

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R

Running stitch -- many people use running stitches to divide large cross stitch pieces up into easy to manage sections. They are large stitches that can be snipped and taken out as you finish a particular area. By running stitches vertically and horizontally through the centre of the design you can effectively divide the design into four separate sections i.e. you can treat each section as an individual cross stitch piece. 

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S

Sampler -- a sampler is a specific type of cross stitch design which more often than not includes the letters of the alphabet. Samplers usually have a theme, are much larger than normal designs and take many months or even years to complete. Samplers make great heirlooms for the future.

Seam allowance -- the seam allowance is the distance between the outside line of stitching and the cut edge of the fabric.

Selvage -- the selvage is the thin band of different textured fabric found at the edge of a piece of cross stitch fabric. It is very helpful to most as it doesn't fray and it provides a slightly tougher texture to hold on to.

Skein -- a skein is a package of six-strand embroidery floss held together by a small paper tube. This tube has information regarding brand and color on it and should be kept until a design is finished (just in case you accidentally run out and need to get new supplies).

Stamped cross stitch -- this type of cross stitch has the design printed onto the fabric, usually as Xs. The complete design is sewn over and so the printing can not be seen on the end result. The legend shows which color is to be used which each X and as the crosses are bigger than in counted cross stitch, this technique is great for beginners or those with poor eyesight.

Stranded cotton -- stranded cotton is the term used to describe the normal thread used for most cross stitch designs. It is bought as a skein and is available in hundreds of different colors, each of which has a unique color-code.

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T

Tapestry needle -- tapestry needles are great for cross stitch as they have a blunt tip that slides between the threads of the fabric rather than parting them. Most kits are supplied with a tapestry needle.

Tension -- the term tension refers to the tightness of a stitch. A stitch on Aida fabric should lay flat on the fabric however it should not be so tight that it warps the weave. Similarly, the word tension is used when employing an embroidery hoop. The fabric should be tight enough that it doesn't sag in the middle but it shouldn't be so tight that it stretches the weave of the material. 

Thread organizer -- refer to 'Organizer' for an explanation.

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U

Unbleached threads -- unbleached threads are un-dyed threads and are great if you want to experiment with your own colors.

Unpick -- unpicking occurs when you loose your place in a design or you simply loose concentration and end up stitching too many stitches or using the wrong color. It happens to the best of us however unpicking stitches takes time and so you should take care to check your chart regularly.   

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V

Variegated threads -- if you look at a skein of variegated thread you will notice the color changing from light to dark and back again along the length of the thread. This gives a subtle but unique effect when used in a block of cross stitches.

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W

Wadding -- wadding is a packing material used to stuff cushions and other such items. It can also be used however to pad behind cross stitch designs and give them a subtle 3D appearance. This is especially effective when making gift cards and the centre piece of the card stands proud. Wadding is also known as Batting.

Warp Threads -- the Warp threads of a fabric are those which run parallel to the Selvage.  They are the threads that were applied tightly to the loom before weaving with the weft threads.  Warp threads, when pulled from the fabric, are almost flat.