Sarah Bee

Every cross stitcher who has purchased a book, chart, or kit probably has instructions for at least two or three framing methods. After trying your hand at framing a couple of completed projects, you probably prefer one method over any others. There is no shortage of framing instructions available so, for this article, we will concentrate on a framing method that yields good results and lasts for years. But first, let's consider the aesthetics of framing.

Each cross-stitch picture is special and during the process of stitching you have developed a mental picture of how it will look when completed and framed. Things you may consider are how much unstitched fabric will be visible around the design and whether you will use a mat. If you choose to use a mat you must also decide on the color, size, and shape as well as whether the design will be enhanced by the use of multiple mats. A mat, even with a very small design, can add drama and focus to your design.

The other major element of your masterpiece is the frame. For smaller designs you may find a suitable ready-made frame for your design in any store that sells frames. You may even find nice frames in thrift stores or yard sales. For larger pictures, it is often necessary to have a frame custom made at your favorite framing shop.

To make the decision-making process easier, it is a good idea to take your finished project with you to the framing shop where you can try out different mats and framing materials. There you will be able to experiment with the mat colors available as well as options for your frame. This is a good time to measure your design to determine the inside dimensions of your mat or frame. Once you have made your choices, don't forget to order a piece of glass to fit your frame.

Before leaving the shop, have a stretching board cut. My personal preference is a gray stretching board approximately one to two inches larger than the design. (You will find that the gray board behind your project will make any threads carried behind blank fabric less visible.) Although you can cut the stretching board yourself, the framing shop can do a more precise cut, which will make the mounting process easier.

With your choices made, you are ready to prepare your needlework while waiting to pick up your order. First, you should wash the piece; even if it doesn't appear to be soiled there will be oils from your hands that could result in discoloration. Fill a sink or basin with warm water to which you have added a few drops of a mild dishwashing liquid. Place the piece into the soapy water and allow it to soak for at least 15 minutes. Remove the needlework from the soapy water and squeeze it gently before placing it in cold water. NEVER WRING YOUR NEEDLEWORK! Rinse your piece at least two or three times or until you are positive no soap remains.

Place the wet fabric between the folds of a white bath towel and roll it up, squeezing to remove as much water as possible. With most of the water removed you are ready to place the piece face down on a fresh white towel for pressing. Be careful to use an up-and-down motion rather than side-to-side to avoid distortion. You will find that a medium setting on your iron will remove wrinkles from most fabrics except linen, which may require a slightly higher setting. If your design contains any synthetic or metallic fibers you will need to protect the back with a pressing cloth; a piece of cotton, such as muslin, works well.

You are now ready to mount your needlework on the stretching board. First, center the board on the back and place stainless steel pins in both sides and each end. With all sides equal, follow the thread line to each corner, placing pins at quarter inch intervals along the edges of your board. Push the pins firmly into the edge of the board to prevent them from falling out as you work your way around.

With your needlework completely pinned, you are ready to attach it to the board. Turn your work face down and place acid-free, two-sided tape along all edges of the back side of the board. Starting in the center of each side, anchor the fabric to the two-sided tape by pulling it snugly over the edge and against the tape. When all four sides are secure, burnish the fabric to the tape. Use acid-free masking tape to secure the edges of the fabric to the board on all four sides and miter the fabric in each corner. Remove all of your pins and the piece is ready to frame.

If you are using a mat, use your acid-free tape around the inside edge on the back of the mat. Then center the mat over the design area and press it into place. Turn the mat and needlework face down and use packing tape to provide additional support for your mounted piece. If the needlework is large, it may be necessary to provide even more support once the piece is placed in the frame. Measuring the distance to the inside edge of the frame and cutting a piece of foam board to fit the space will provide additional support. If using foam board as a filler it can be secured with either the two-sided tape or packing tape.

NEVER use cardboard for framing; it is composed of unrefined paper with a high acid content.

Next, clean the side of the glass that will be inside the framed piece using non-ammonia glass cleaner and, if possible, a micro fiber cloth. Paper towels may work as long as no lint or fibers remain on the glass. Place the mounted needlework into the frame and secure all four sides with one pushpoint or brad. Turn the piece over and look for hairs or dust particles. Then look again.

Once you are satisfied that the inside of the glass is spotless and nothing has crept inside, place more brads or pushpoints into each side of the frame to secure the piece. Next, apply two-sided tape to the backside of the frame. Smoothly cover the back of the frame with brown craft paper or wrapping paper and trim the excess with a single-edged razor or exacto knife.

Depending on the size of the framed piece, attach eyelet screws with wire for larger pictures or a sawtooth hanger for a smaller piece. If using a wire to hang the piece, the placement of the eyelet screws should be approximately one third the distance from top to bottom of the frame. Place rubber bumpers on the bottom corners of large frames to protect the surface of the wall. Finally, clean the outside of the glass.

You are now ready to hang and enjoy your work.