Cross-Stitch and Blackwork
Leni Bernardo
Blackwork: a Cross Stitch Challenge to Consider
Blackwork is counted thread embroidery in black thread worked in geometric designs and usually completed on evenweave linen. Red silk is a popular alternative, and is called Scarletwork. You may not enjoy working in just one color. Perhaps you are one of those people who enjoys sorting colored threads, or love to see the merging of different shades of color across your cross stitch project. If this is the case, maybe Blackwork is not for you. Even so, read on. You may be tempted to try Blackwork as an experiment, and then become hooked on it, as several of my stitching friends have.
Background to Blackwork
Historically, in the UK, references to Blackwork have been made as far back as the fifteenth century; Chaucer wrote about it in 'The Miller's Tale' from The Canterbury Tales. The craft did not become popular until the Catherine of Aragon arrived in England from Spain in the sixteenth century. Embroidery was then considered to be a 'wifely art' and Catherine created a great national fascination with Blackwork. This continued through the Tudor and Elizabethan periods.
Unfortunately, the Stuart period in the seventeenth century witnessed a lack of interest in this - and other forms - of embroidery. A revival took place in the twentieth century, when it became fashionable to use Blackwork designs on cushions and tablecloths.
Blackwork Stitches
The most common types of Blackwork use simple stitches to create complex scrolling or geometric patterns. Originally, these patterns only used horizontal and vertical stitches, without any diagonal lines in the patterns at all. Therefore, all turns were made at 45 degree angles, which gave the designs a characteristically square look. Nowadays, we use diagonal lines in popular designs. The counted stitch method does require precise geometric alignment of stitches. One of its most attractive features is that by using just a few simple stitches, you can create ornate patterns.
In addition to using the traditional cross stitch, you can also experiment with new stitches. These include:
- Algerian Eye Stitch
- Rhodes Stitch
- Herringbone Cross Stitch
- Smyrna Stitch.
I have tried these stitches, and can assure you that they are not difficult if you are used to doing cross stitch.
One of the challenges of doing Blackwork is that using black thread on a contrasting fabric means that any thread will show through the fabric. You will therefore have to be meticulous in not allowing yourself to draw thread across the back of the fabric when you are moving from one part of the design to another.
Blackwork Tips and Tricks
I was intrigued to discover that many of the original Blackwork designs were reversible. This means that front and back can be equally on show, for example when the cuffs of sleeves were embroidered. This is a great challenge even for the most accomplished stitcher!
Now, let me give you some tips for creating Blackwork designs as a beginner:
- By all means, use aida fabric if you find this easier at first. Most Blackwork is done on evenweave fabric. If you do use aida fabric, you'll have to split the blocks of aida to make any small couching stitches.
- It's useful to use a frame when stitching to keep the tension of the fabric perfectly even. If you use a hoop frame, remove it after each stitching session; this will ensure that the weave of the fabric will not distort or pick up rust stains.
- If you are intending to do your Blackwork straight onto a cuff, collar or pocket of an item of clothing, wash and dry the clothing and thread before you start stitching. You will not want the stitches to pucker up if there is shrinkage of the fabric.
- If you are going to create your own design, then draft it on a piece of graph paper first.
- For inspiration for designs, try finding a stained glass window in a church, or look at spiders' webs, interesting architecture and even the wonderfully titled Society for Creative Anachronism (http://www.sca.org/)
- For geometrical designs that fill up outlined shapes, mark the centre of each shape with a pin or loose stitch and work it from the centre outwards. This will help you to keep your patterns symmetrical.
- For 'scrolling' designs, again mark the centre and work from the inside out.
Find more ideas in books written for beginners of Blackwork. My favourites are both written by Lesley Wilkins, and they offer beginners and experienced stitchers all you need to know about Blackwork as well as ideas for designing your own samplers. They are: 'Beginner's Guide to Blackwork' and 'Traditional Blackwork Samplers'.
You may be wondering if you should try Blackwork. While it's obviously a personal decision, I think you might be pleasantly surprised with the results you will achieve with relatively little effort. For that reason alone, it's well worth trying ~ go for it and Good luck!
|
Cross Stitch Library
